Wildlife Tours Around Lavanta hotel

By Andrew Byfield & Rosemary FitzGerald

• Around Lavanta and Yalikavak

• South of the Meander

• The Heart of Caria

• Along the Gulf of Gököva

AROUND LAVANTA AND YALIKAVAK

THE LONELY ROMANCE OF THE DESERTED GREEK VILLAGE OF SANDIMA, THE WILD COASTLINE OF THE KÜTÜR PENINSULA, AND THE PALM GROVE OF GÖLKÖY PROVIDE PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES FOR HIKING AND FLOWER OR BIRD WATCHING FOR THOSE KEEN ON A DAY CLOSE TO BASE.

The Kütür Peninsula is the prominent series of rocky headlands that dominate the view below Lavanta Hotel, and is good for a full day's walking and scrambling. From Lavanta, drive down into the village of Yalıkavak, take the first main road to the right on approaching the centre of the village, following blue signs to Dodo Beach. The road winds round the Yalıkavak bay to the small newish settlement of Bahçe, before rising up onto the headland. Dodo Beach is well sign-posted and is a good place to park your car and to start the walk. Follow the dirt road along the northern coastline on foot (it can be driven with four wheel drive vehicles in dry weather) for about 15 to 20 minutes until reaching a small fenced environmental forest area called the Atatürk Ormanı, planted by the Yalıkavak Municipality. Here the road stops, but a short stroll up the low-lying saddle ahead brings you to the wild cliffs beyond, with magnificent views out to myriad of Aegean islands. From here we followed the multitude of goat tracks around part of the wild coastline, and we suspect that the paths encircle the whole peninsula, although heavy rain stopped us putting this theory to the test. 

Much of the hills and cliff slopes are covered with the low spiny shrubs of the spiny salad burnet (Sarcopoterium spinosum), although areas with deeper soils support patches of the sparkling white rose-like flowered Cistus monspeliensis. The latter species is something of a rarity in Turkey (though much commoner at the western end of the Mediterranean), and was added to the Turkish flora only in the 1980s. Although the vegetation of this headland looks somewhat bleak it is surprisingly rich. In spring, look out for flat rosettes of rugged dark green leaves, with a central mass of purple-mauve flowers: this is the Mandrake (Mandragorum autumnalis), a plant long renowned for the medicinal properties of its rootstock. Tradition has it that the roots - branched and forked like the body of a human - shriek if they are pulled from the ground, and that to hear the screams inevitably leads to madness. Accordingly, those harvesting the roots forced the local dog population to do their dirty work, tying them to plants for harvesting, whilst covering their own ears. Nobody relates the fate of the dogs! But don't be tempted yourself for all parts of the plants - save the large golden egg-like fruit - are poisonous.

Mandragorum autumnalis

narcisus

As soon as the autumn rains moisten the summer-dry slopes, the small mauve-blue spikes of the Autumn Squill (Scilla autumnalis) and the miniature daffodil Narcissus serotinus occur in countless thousands over the headland. It is well-worth inspecting the Narcissus closely, for each flower, little more than a centimetre across, is like a perfectly formed Pheasant's-eye daffodil, and boasts the same sweet and intense fragrance.

Some of the best plants of the peninsula are to be found on the higher cliffs. In April, that most showy of sea lavenders, Limonium sinuatum, forms bold patches of rich purple. This is the wild ancestor of the widely cultivated florist's flower 'statice': look closely, for the purple 'flower' is not actually a true flower, but the real creamy-yellow flowers are to be found nestling amongst these purple bracts, rather in the manner of bougainvillea. Later in the year, two rather distinctive plants flower in some abundance on the cliffs: Helichrysum orientale (a relative of the everlasting flower) and Silene fabaria. The fleshy, blue-green leaves of the latter are more typical of a succulent crassula or houseleek.

For the keen eyed - and lucky - visitor there is always a chance of catching a glimpse of the Mediterranean Monk Seal. This shy and elusive animal is known to frequent the rocky shoreline and coves, and the peninsula has been declared a protected area to help the conservation of this critically endangered mammal. Monk Seals were formerly relatively widespread throughout the Mediterranean, extending along the Black Sea shores of Turkey and Bulgaria. Today, pollution of the sea, disturbance from humans and entrapment within the nets of fishermen have brought this species to the verge of extinction - it is now regarded as one of the ten most severely threatened mammals on earth.

sternbergia.

Orchis Anatolica

Crocus Biflorus

Dwarfed by giant weatherworn granite boulders, and bisected by a deep, boulder-strewn chasm, the small deserted settlement of Sandima is an ideal place to savour the traditional atmosphere of the Bodrum Peninsula. Until 1923 the village was inhabited by Greeks, but was evacuated during the exchange of Turks and Greeks at this time. Today, just two houses are occupied in this dramatic but lonely spot. Imposing plants of the Century Plant (Agave americana) and the prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica) occur as scattered individuals through the village, but the botanist is more likely to be interested in the natural plants that abound in the area. In spring, orchids such as the Holy orchid (Orchis sancta) are to be found, together with bulbous plants such as the small aroid Biarum tenuifolium, whose maroon black flowers pierce the turf during April and May. Oleanders make a colourful show along the streamside, their pink flowers at their best in July. Later still, clumps of the startling yellow Sternbergia lutea are to be spotted, often from afar, here and there around the eastern half of the village. Recent researches suggest that this plant, long thought to be native in Turkey, may in fact be an ancient introduction from Greece or elsewhere, for it is always associated with villages in Turkey and has yet to be found in a truly natural site. So natural is the village setting that interesting native plants are to be found in the heart of the old settlement: the blue flower spikes of the Delphinium staphisagria occur along the margin of the graveyard, whilst the moisture-loving Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum capillus-veneris) is completely at home growing from the damp mortar of a well in the village centre. It normally occurs on damp sea cliffs. Maria or Tosun at Lavanta can explain how to walk to the deserted village from the hotel: in all a pleasant ramble of about two hours.

One of the strangest sights of the Yalıkavak area is the natural grove of palm trees to be found at Gölköy, situated at the eastern end of the Türkbükü bay. The village of Gölköy - literally 'Lake Village' - takes its name from the relatively large shallow lake situated at the rear of the small coastal plain, to the rear and east of the village. If you are expecting a vast expanse of water you may be disappointed, for much of the lake is dry for large parts of the year. However, for those willing to explore a small lake of about 5 hectares survives, fed by springs issuing from the base of the limestone hills at this point. The palms are to be found close to this lake. A recent survey found about 200 multi-stemmed individuals up to eight metres in height. As to their precise identity, this is currently uncertain: it is thought that they represent a new subspecies of the Cretan Date Palm (Phoenix theophrasti) or a hybrid between this and the cultivated Date Palm (Phoenix dactylifera). Since the latter species is not known as a wild plant, the Gölköy individuals may represent the closest wild relatives of the date occurring in a natural location today.

SOUTH OF THE MEANDER

THE BEAUTIFUL LAKE BAFA SHELTERING BELOW THE MASSIF OF THE BATI MENTEÞE DAÐLARI, THE VAST SYSTEMS OF LAGOONS AND SALT MARSH OF THE BÜYÜK MENDERES DELTA, THE LOFTY PROMONTORY OF THE DILEK YARIMADASI NATIONAL PARK AND A STRING OF IMPORTANT ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES, MAKE THIS TOUR A MUST FOR BOTH THE NATURALIST - PARTICULARLY BIRD WATCHERS - AND LOVERS OF HISTORICAL SITES.

Take the main road to Milas from Lavanta. A few kilometres after the road junction to the airport, take a turning to the left clearly marked to 'Iasos' (17 km). The road winds for a few kilometres amongst fields of cotton, across the plain of the Sarıçay before gently rising up the dry limestone hills to the south. At this point it is possible to get good views over the Güllük Delta, a wilderness of tall reeds and secret pools, pink in summer from the blossom of the abundant tamarisk bushes. Although damaged by drainage and construction of the new airport, the marshes are still of considerable importance for their Pygmy Cormorants, which stop off here during migration. Keen bird watchers should look out for the White-breasted and Pied kingfishers, which have both bred here in the past.

The way to Iasos is well marked. As one approaches the village of Kıyıkışlacık across the muddy head of a bay, the 'island' on which Iasos stands rises up to the left of the road. Iasos has a long and complicated history dating back to at least the beginning of the second millennium BC, and involving Greeks, Spartans, Persians, Carians and Romans. Work by a team of Italian archaeologists since the 1960s has uncovered a fine agora and bouleterion (legislative council meeting place) amongst the extensive remains of defensive walls dating from the 4C BC. However, in spite of the considerable remains on view today, perhaps the greatest joy of the site is to wander up to the acropolis atop the main hill, savouring the site's atmosphere, imagining the history that still lies buried beneath the soil, and enjoying the magnificent sea views glimpsed between the innumerable age-old olive trees. The dramatic Dragon's Arum (Dracunculus vulgaris) - a relative of the Calla lily with large flowers the colour and stench of rotting meat - is abundant over the hill in springtime, whilst the autumn flowering Cyclamen hederifolium and the diminutive white-flowered Ladies'-tresses Orchid (Spiranthes spiralis) occur amongst the ruins in late October.

Leaving Iasos, retrace your route for a few kilometres back across the small plain behind the village. At the crossroads, turn left following a small tarmac road that winds amongst pine forests, venerable olive groves and through a string of small villages, with much of their traditional atmosphere intact. For visitors in autumn, the huge yellow goblet-shaped flowers of Sternbergia clusiana are THE plant to look out for. It is at its best in the days immediately after the first autumn rains, growing in the orchards and fields around habitation. It is particularly fine in the graveyard and surrounding paddocks of Gürçamlar village.

The road passes through Gürçamlar and Kazıklı before dropping down onto the flat coastal plain that encircles the Akbük bay. Excessive development of second homes, which march in serried ranks, box-like and unforgiving white, across parts of the plain and up impossibly steep looking hills is destroying much of the wild feel of this windswept reef of maquis, dominated by strawberry trees and the needle-leaved St John's-wort Hypericum empetrifolium, so press on fast to Didim town. It is a truly surreal sight to see the monumental columns of the Temple of Apollo at Didyma looming out from the rough-and-ready buildings of this bleak, frontier town. Measuring 109 x 51 metres, and boasting 108 enormous columns, this structure remains one of the great monuments of antiquity. And despite its setting at the edge of town, tortoises still amble amongst the blocks of masonry, and in late summer Plumbago europaea (a close relative of the sub-tropical, pale blue 'plumbago') flowers amongst the cracks of their cracks. This is definitely a site not to miss.

Papaver Roheas

Euphorbia Rigida

Leaving, with the temple on your left and former church (today in use as a mosque) on your right, follow the road out of the village in a north-westerly direction along the western shoreline of this peninsula. 
After about 15 km the road passes through the village of Akköy. Keep left through the village, taking the turn marked for the ancient sites of Priene and Miletos. For those keen on birds and with a reasonably tough vehicle, take the dirt track just a few hundred metres beyond the junction (marked by a large national park sign sporting the image of a yellow pelican). This winds for a number of kilometres before dropping down onto the vast salt marshes of the Büyük Menderes Delta. The track continues along a new stone causeway out across the marshes right to the mouth of the Menderes river, from where magnificent views of the Dilek Peninsula, rising to 1237 metres above the bleak marshes, makes for a dramatic panorama. At the end of the road, a cluster of huts - seemingly rising from the sea itself - form the centre of a traditional fishing industry using small boats and a series of fence-like fish traps - 'Dalyan' in Turkish - which arc for many kilometres across the bay. The delta and Dilek Peninsula is protected as a vast national park covering 277 square kilometres. The rocky ground of the peninsula is famed for its wild forests and rich flora. It is one the last places in Turkey in which the Anatolian Leopard still survives: this is the largest race of leopards on earth, exceeding even those of the African plains. The flat marshes and lagoons of the delta itself are of international importance for their bird life: Dalmatian Pelicans, Kentish Plover and Collared Pratincole are amongst the rarer breeding birds, but it is perhaps the wintering flocks of birds such as Greater Flamingo, Pygmy Cormorant, Dalmatian Pelican and Avocets that will most impress.

Retrace your route back to the main road: here it is possible to detour to the left (north) taking in the beautiful ancient cities of Miletos and Priene: however these are perhaps best dealt with as part of a separate tour. Instead, turn right and drive back into Akköy village. Leave the village taking the left hand turn signposted Söke and Milas: after 7 km this lane brings you to the main Söke-Milas road. Dedicated bird watchers may wish to visit the extensive reed beds at the western end of Bafa Lake: if so take the small unsurfaced track across from the far side of the roundabout. After a few kilometres, this track reaches a major channel that drains the lake itself: follow the right hand bank of the channel to reach the lake shoreside (and beware the dogs!).

However, most visitors are best advised to admire the wild and beautiful scenery of Bafa Lake (Bafa Gölü) from the village of Herakleia on the north-eastern shores of the lake. To reach this, turn right at the major roundabout mentioned above, travelling for 24 kilometres through olive-covered hillsides and along the lake side, before turning left at the village of Çamiçi to travel the final 10 km to Herakleia (modern Kapıkırı). Here, situated under the rugged mountains of the Batı Mentee Dağları (ancient Mt Latmus) and with the still expanse of Bafa Lake stretching for 30 kilometres in front, the setting of the ancient town of Herakleia under Latmus is one of the most sublimely beautiful in Turkey. The ruins of the ancient settlement are scattered amongst vast granite boulder fields - ancient rock falls from the mountain above - and are inextricably intermixed with the more modern houses of the contemporary village. The Hellenistic city walls, extending for over 6 kilometres and still in excellent state of preservation, are the most dramatic remains surviving today: however, visitors may choose to relax in one of the simple shore side cafes, and simply soak in the history of the place. Many ancient writers associate Herakleia with the legend of Endymion, immortalised by writers and poets such as Shakespeare and Keats. It was here that Endymion persuaded Zeus to permit him sleep for ever in a cave on the mountain slopes: here he was seen by Selene, who besotted by his good looks, slept with him at night, though she failed to raise him from his slumber. More latterly, hermits and monks believed Endymion to be a Christian saint for they admired his powers of self-denial: others have described his disinterest as catatonia! Nevertheless, Endymion, without waking once, gave Selene 50 daughters.

Herakleia is also a good vantage point from which to observe the lake's diverse bird life: it is of international importance for its breeding Collared Pratincole and Spur-winged Plovers, and up to 91,000 waterfowl overwinter here, including vast flocks of Great-crested and Black-necked grebes, Pochard and Coot. Rafts of Dalmatian Pelican are also frequent visitors from the nearby Menderes Delta.

Return to the main Soke-Milas the way you came, turning left at the main road for the hour's drive back to Lavanta. One final site deserves mention: the ancient city of Euromus, situated about 4 km beyond the village of Selimiye. You can hardly miss the site, for the best-preserved monument of the city - the Temple of Zeus - lies amongst olive trees just metres from the main road. With 16 of its columns still standing, it is one of the best-preserved temples in Turkey.

THE HEART OF CARIA

LOST CITIES FROM ANTIQUITY SET AMONGST ROLLING PINE FORESTS IN THE HILLS ABOVE MILAS, TOGETHER WITH A RANGE OF RARE FLOWERS, MAKE FOR A STUNNING DAY'S TOURING BY CAR OR JEEP.

The Gökbel Dağları and the Batı Menteşe Dağları (named after the early Turkish Menteşe Dynasty) are the low but imposing mountains that rise to the north and north east of Milas. This day starts and finishes in Milas, and takes in the ancient cities of Labranda and Alinda. From Lavanta find your way back to the large road junction on the outskirts of Milas, and here take the left hand turn signposted to Söke. After a few kilometres take the well-marked turn ('Labranda') to the right, for the 14 km drive to the ancient site of Labranda. Until recently the road was not surfaced, but even today this road twists and turns up into the mountains, At every turn, the landscape changes, at times of intimate scenes of bee-keepers tending their rows of blue or white hives, at others, of grander views of distant mountains and vast forests. This is a stunning landscape of enormous granite boulders, their rounded form mimicked by the round crowns of the innumerable Umbrella or Stone Pines (Pinus pinea). The Stone Pine is a rather local pine in Turkey: about 30,000 hectares (70,000 acres) of stone pine forest survive, and the examples that you pass through today are one of the two largest examples in Turkey. They are of exceptional economic importance to the locals, as the provider of pine nuts: you may see locals harvesting the cones during your visit. 

The rich brown cyclopean walls of Labranda nestles amongst small terraces claimed from the forest, amongst wild pistachio and poplar trees, which turn an intense red and yellow in autumn. A sanctuary was established at the site by the Carians, to honour the god Zeus Stratius. In fact the grander buildings visible on site today were erected later, by the Hecatomnid ruling partnership of the brothers Mausolus and Idrieus, who adopted the cult of Zeus Stratius. These include the imposing remains of a fine Andron, a structure that effectively a religious, men-only clubhouse. Legend has it that a fountain in the temple harboured tame fish bearing necklaces and earrings of gold, which fed from the hand: could the fountain house, still standing today, give credence to this story? Labranda is an impressive site, but for many visitors it is the sublime beauty of the setting that will leave the strongest memories of a visit. The location is a good place to see the most important plant of these hills, the beautiful shell-pink Cyclamen mirabile, at its best in late October and early November. This cyclamen is largely confined to the hills in this region of Turkey, but much of its early history was shrouded in mystery. First found in 1905, the few specimens that reached the gardens of Germany eventually perished, whilst the dried museum specimens were destroyed during the bombing of Berlin. The plant took on a legendary status until its rediscovery (in Çine) some fifty years later: only a handful of gardeners were lucky enough to receive living tubers of this treasure at the time, and it retained only a toehold in cultivation. It was therefore with some horror amongst nature lovers when hundreds of thousands of tubers turned up on the shelves of European supermarkets. As a result conservationists in Turkey and Europe worked together to set up sustainable village-based cultivation fields, with the aim of eliminating the wild trade in this and other bulbous plants. Today, cultivated cyclamen and snowdrops are amongst the bulbs being exported to Europe, whilst trade in the very rarest species, such as Cyclamen mirabile, has been banned.

Leaving Labranda, continue up the road into the hills. After about 9 km the road drops down onto a flat plain, studded with mature stone pines, close to the village of Hatipkışla. Turn left at the first major junction for the five or so kilometres to the small town of Karpuzlu: a small turning within the village takes you up a steep narrow street to the ancient site of Alinda. A short walk takes you along a narrow lane amongst the houses of old Karpuzlu to the grand agora (market place) of the ancient city. The historic city is spread amongst the olives up to the acropolis above, and includes a range of fine buildings, including the remains of a medium-sized theatre, dating from the Hellenic period. Alinda does not boast the fine marble stonework of more Classical sites, but the massive and functional stonework - combined with the site's setting - still make this grand site one of the most important in the region. As archaeologist and writer George Bean commented: 'no visitor.....is likely to come away dissatisfied'. For the flower lover, Cyclamen mirabile makes a reappearance here, together with crocuses and squills.

Leaving Alinda, visitors have a choice: to follow signs to the town of Çine calling in on the ancient site of Alabanda en route, or to partly retrace their steps back to Milas. Unless you are keen on a very long day, we recommend the latter: so leave Karpuzlu for the 5 kilometres at Hatipkışþla, taking the left hand turn, to follow a circular route back, passing the Gediz Reservoir, before finally dropping dramatically down onto the Milas Plain.

ALONG THE GULF OF GÖKOVA

LOFTY LIMESTONE CRAGS SET IN EXTENSIVE CALABRIAN PINE FORESTS, SWIMMING OPPORTUNITIES ALONG LARGELY UNSPOILT COASTLINES, AND PANORAMIC VIEWS OF THE DATÇA PENINSULA ACROSS THE GULF OF GÖKOVA COMBINE TO PROVIDE A LONG AND SCENIC DRIVE FOR ADVENTUROUS VISITORS.

Anemone Coronaria

Cistus Creticus

Cyclamen Mirabile

Cyclamen Hederifolium

Tulipa Armena

Colchicum Variegatum

This tour effectively starts close to the town of Milas. Drive from Lavanta to Milas, and take the first turn right - signposted to Ören - just 50 metres beyond the large junction on the town's outskirts. Those after a very long day out may wish to spend an hour or two at Peçin Kalesi situated on the prominent flat topped hill just 1 km beyond the junction, but in view of the overall length of the drive, this is perhaps better treated as a separate tour. To reach Peçin Kalesi take the second turning right on reaching the small village after about one kilometre. Returning to the road to Ören, the first part of the drive - to Ören itself - winds through open and forested hillsides, but this has partly been blighted by extensive lignite mining. So it is best to press on to the coast. The final few kilometres before the coast pass through fine limestone mountains: look out for trees of the highly localised Sweet Gum, Liquidambar orientalis: this is distinguished from the wild plane trees with which it grows in the river bed, by its smaller, darker green maple-like leaves. The tree is only found in south-west Anatolia and the adjacent island of Rhodes and is a remarkable relict of Tertiary times - a living fossil if you like - when the tree (and other related species) were widely spread across the north temperate world (and indeed much of Europe). In recent times the tree has been the important source of sweet gum, a valuable resin used in the production of perfumes, but this trade is now forbidden due to the rarity and importance of this handsome tree. 

On reaching the shoreline (at the Kemerköy coal burning power station) turn left to Ören village. The name means 'ruins', and the town is located on, or among, the remains of ancient Ceramus. Archaeological guides can dismiss this site as pillaged and degraded, but it still remains both fascinating and intensely picturesque, although few large buildings remain intact. Glimpses of the atmosphere and timeless feel of the place are to be snatched through gateways and down alleyways: washing strung across a prehistoric archway, hens scratching beneath the tumbled sections of cyclopean walls, gardens hewn from the foundations of ancient buildings. Set at the foot of the lofty limestone ridge of the Kıran Dağları, the new literally made from the old, Ören is both a lively modern village, yet retains its magically timeless atmosphere. 

It is worth making a detour for a few kilometres up the valley of the Koca Çayı river, which enters the sea at this point. High limestone crags loom from fine Calabrian Pine (Pinus brutia) forests: in the relatively cool of these forests a wide range of flowers is to be found, with the hooded olive-green and white striped flowers of the Friar's Cowl (Arisarum vulgare) abundant in spring (and occasionally putting in a second appearance in Autumn), whilst the pink Cyclamen hederifolium is common in autumn. The more eagle-eyed might spy the chequered rich pink flowers of the autumn flowering Colchicum variegatum. For those particularly interested in history, as you pass up the river valley you may be able to spy the remains of a system of tiny aqueducts that carried water to Ceramus.

Retrace your route to the coal-fired power station, but instead of turning inland, proceed along the coastal road, for the long, winding, yet rewarding drive back to Mumcular (Karaova) and Lavanta. For the first few kilometres the road passes close to the shore, yet the few bays and beaches remain unspoilt, and the water clean and inviting for a leisurely swim (don't expect golden sands though, for the beaches here are made up of small cobbles). After a while the road turns inland, and passes through scenery little changed for hundreds of years. This is Mediterranean landscape at its best: the tiny road follows the natural contours, lurching down gullies and ascending high crests, with stunning 180-degree panoramic views of the unspoilt Datça Peninsula dominating the scene across the waters of the Gulf of Gökova. And it is easy to become blaisé about the extensive forests of pine of the area: a glimpse of what much of the Mediterranean shores looked like a few thousand years ago, and a poignant reminder of how much man has changed the landscape across southern Europe.

It is difficult to give precise directions through the villages of the area, but all the roads are beautiful, and locals will be happy to direct you back to the main Milas-Bodrum road (just ask for Bodrum).